More Cruise: Kazan

After boarding our boat, the Akademik Glushkov, in Nizhny's harbor, we set off for a night's sail to Kazan, the next major port on the Volga.  The capital of the semi-autonomous Tatarstan Republic, Kazan is a fascinating study of Russian multiculturalism, where ethnic Tatars outnumber their Russian counterparts by nearly two to one.  The republic considers both Russian and Tatar as its official language.  

The most obvious symbols of Kazan's mixed heritage are held within the walls of the kremlin near the city center.  There a mosque and a church, both recently renovated, stand yards apart-- although, as a Russian professor in our group remarked somewhat wryly, the buildings are separated by a high brick wall.  The day we were there, both Muslim and Orthodox weddings were being celebrated in the kremlin.  It seems that the Tatars of Kazan, most of whom are Sunni Muslims, have picked up some habits from their Russian neighbors:  just outside the mosque's doors, there was the requisite group of bridesmaids and best men swigging champagne to celebrate the union.  

Tatarstan has benefitted hugely from Russia's oil boom-- almost half of the region's economy is based on oil production, and it is among the wealthiest parts of the nation.  Exploring the city center, I was amazed by how western it seemed, not least because of the enormous black-glass shopping center that towers over the harbor.  Further in there are older storefronts lined up along pedestrian avenues, many occupied by European luxury brands.  In front of one a child no older than four was folded into the beggar's pose so often seen here, his head nearly touching his knees.  Inequality in Russia rears up in the most inescapable ways.